孔院微课堂 | 今年中秋，你吃什么月饼？

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金桂飘香，月满中秋。每年农历八月十五是中国的传统节日——中秋节。在这天，家人团聚，共赏明月，饮桂吃蟹……当然，必不可少的习俗还有吃月饼。月饼是如何成为中秋节标配的？今年中秋，你吃什么月饼？让我们一起来了解一下吧~

As the fragrance of the sweet osmanthus sweetens the air, the moon becomes perfectly full on the Mid-Autumn Festival, which falls on the fifteenth day of the eighth lunar month. During the traditional festival, Chinese families would get together to enjoy the bright moon, drink osmanthus wine and eat crabs... Of course, another essential custom is to eat moon cakes. How did moon cakes become a must-have for the occasion? Which kind of moon cake will you have for this year’s Mid-Autumn Festival? Let’s learn some things about moon cakes together…

月饼的发展历史

The Development History of Moon Cakes

关于月饼的由来，流传着多种说法，其中接受度最高的有两种：一说月饼源自汉唐时期西域的“胡饼”；一说北宋民间的“小饼”和“月团”为月饼的雏形。

There are many theories about the origin of moon cakes, and two of them are the most widely accepted. One holds that moon cakes originated from hubing (lit. barbarian cakes) of the “Western Regions” during the Han (202BC~220AD) and Tang (618~907) dynasties.(“Western Regions” was an ancient term for the area west of Yumenguan, including the present-day Xinjiang, parts of Central Asia and beyond). The other theory contends that they stemmed from the xiaobing (lit. small cakes) and yuetuan (lit. moon pastry balls) of the Northern Song Dynasty (960~1127).

1972年，吐鲁番阿斯塔那230号墓出土了一块唐代宝相花纹胡饼。这块胡饼以小麦粉为原料、模压成型、烘烤制成，看起来比一般的胡饼更厚，还出现了丰富的压花，外形上与现代流行的月饼有些相似。

In 1972, a Tang Dynasty hubing with a composite pattern was unearthed from No. 230 Tomb in Astana Cemetery in Turpan, Xinjiang, China. The cake was made of wheat flour, molded and baked. Thicker than ordinary hubing back then, it has rich embossing, and bears some resemblance to modern popular moon cakes.

唐代宝相花纹胡饼

Tang Dynasty Composite-Pattern Hubing

图片来源：新疆维吾尔自治区博物馆

Image courtesy: Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region Museum

据记载，北宋时的“小饼”和“月团”以小麦粉、饴糖、猪油等材料制皮，以猪油丁、松子、果仁等为馅，正如苏轼在《留别廉守》一诗中写道：“小饼如嚼月，中有酥与饴。”其制作方法与如今流行的苏式、京式月饼比较接近。

According to records, the xiaobing and yuetuan in the Northern Song Dynasty consisted of a crust made of wheat flour, maltose, lard and other materials, and a filling made of diced lard, pine nuts, kernels, etc. Just as Su Shi wrote in his poem Farewell to the Governor of Lianzhou, “the delicate cakes are round like the full moon, filled with lard and maltose.” The production method is similar to the popular Suzhou-style and Beijing-style moon cakes today.

“月饼”这一名称首次出现在宋朝。宋代周密的《武林旧事》和吴自牧的《梦粱录》均提到了月饼这一食物。

The Chinese name for “moon cakes” first appeared in the Song Dynasty (960~1279). Moon cakes were mentioned in Wulin Jiushi (A Record of the City Lin’an), and Menglianglu (Reminiscence of Lin’an) written by Zhou Mi and Wu Zimu respectively in the Song Dynasty.

元明时期，月饼成为祭月的贡品，并被赋予了团圆之意，开始与中秋节相联系。如明代宦官刘若愚编写的《酌中志》中记载：“自初一日起，即有卖月饼者，至十五日，家家供奉月饼、瓜果……如有剩月饼，乃整收于干燥风凉之处，至岁暮分用之，曰团圆饼也。”到了清朝，中秋吃月饼已成为一种普遍的风俗。

During the Yuan (1271~1368) and Ming (1368~1644) dynasties, moon cakes were made as a kind of tribute to the moon, given the connotations of reunion, and became associated with the Mid-Autumn Festival. For example, according to records in Zhuozhong Zhi (Palace Anecdotes) written by Liu Ruoyu, an eunuch in the Ming Dynasty, “From the first day in the lunar calendar onwards, there are vendors crying moon cakes for sales, and on the fifteenth day, every household offers moon cakes, melons and other fruits as tributes to the moon… afterwards, the leftover moon cakes are collected and stowed away in a dry and cool place, to be eaten at the end of the year. Those are called reunion cakes.” By the Qing Dynasty (1636~1912), eating moon cakes at the Mid-Autumn Festival had become a common practice.

中秋家宴桌上的月饼

Moon cakes on the dinner table of a Mid-Autumn Festival banquet

图片来源：1987年电视剧《红楼梦》

Image courtesy: TV series A Dream of Red Mansions in 1987

在现当代，月饼已成为中秋节必备的节日食品。中国各地月饼种类颇多，其中，广式月饼和苏式月饼最为有名。

In modern times, moon cakes have become a must-have holiday food for the Mid-Autumn Festival. There are many types of moon cakes all over China, among which Cantonese-style and Suzhou-style ones are the most famous.

月饼的种类

Types of Moon Cakes

广式月饼 

Cantonese-style Moon Cakes

皮薄、馅儿多，馅料多选用当地著名特产。饼皮口感松软、细滑，并有清晰、凹凸的图案，是中秋节销量最高的月饼。

With a generous quantity of filling mostly made of local famous specialties, the moon cake features a tender and smooth crust decorated with distinct three-dimensional patterns. It is the best-selling variety during the Mid-Autumn Festival.

广式月饼

Cantonese-style Moon Cakes

图片来源：中国非物质文化遗产网

Image courtesy: website of Intangible Cultural Heritage 

in China

苏式月饼 

Suzhou-style Moon Cakes

皮层酥松，口味分甜、咸两种。

The moon cake features a crisp and puffy crust, and comes in sweet or salty flavors.

苏式月饼

Suzhou-style Moon Cakes

图片来源：中国非物质文化遗产网

Image courtesy: website of Intangible Cultural Heritage 

in China

京式月饼 

Beijing-style Moon Cakes

花样众多，分为自来红、自来白、翻毛月饼、提浆月饼四类。

The moon cake features a plethora of sub-varieties, including Zilaihong moon cakes, Zilaibai moon cakes, Fanmao moon cakes, and Tijiang moon cakes.

京式月饼

Beijing-style Moon Cakes

图片来源：央视网

Image courtesy: cctv.com

滇式月饼  

Yunnan-style Moon Cakes

以“云腿月饼”和“鲜花月饼”为特色。

This variety features ham fillings and flower fillings .

滇式月饼

Yunnan-style Moon Cakes

图片来源：文旅云南

Image courtesy: Cultural Tourism in Yunnan

晋式月饼

Shanxi-style Moon Cakes

形制古朴、口味淳厚，以郭杜林月饼为代表。

Represented by Guo Dulin Moon Cake, Shanxi-style moon cakes have ancient and simple shapes with a rich mellow taste.

晋式月饼

Shanxi-style Moon Cakes

图片来源：中国非物质文化遗产网

Image courtesy: website of Intangible Cultural Heritage

 in China

潮式月饼  

Chaoshan-style Moon Cakes

用猪油掺面粉作皮，包甜馅，口感柔软。

With a crust made of flour and lard and sweet stuffing, the moon cakes have a tender texture.

潮式月饼

Chaoshan-style Moon Cakes

图片来源：央视网

Image courtesy: cctv.com

徽式月饼 

Anhui-style Moon Cakes

表皮为油酥皮，饼焰采用野菜（苦板菜）腌制加工而成。主要代表是“梅干月饼”。

The moon cake features a puffy pastry crust, and a filling of pickled wild vegetables. This variety is best represented by “Dried-Pickled Vegetable Moon Cakes.”

徽式月饼

Anhui-style Moon Cakes

图片来源：腾讯网

Image courtesy: Tencent.com

秦式月饼

Shanxi-style Moon Cakes

以冰糖、板油出头，主要代表为“西安水晶月饼”。

With rock sugar and suet as the distinct features, the moon cake is best represented by “Xi’an Crystal Moon Cakes.”

秦式月饼

Shaanxi-style Moon Cakes

图片来源：环球网

Image courtesy: huanqiu.com

衢式月饼  

Quzhou-style Moon Cakes

以芝麻为重要原料，主要代表有“杜泽桂花月饼”和“邵永丰麻饼”。

Featuring sesame as an important ingredient, this moon cake is best represented by Du Ze Osmanthus Moon Cakes and Shao Yongfeng Sesame Cakes.

衢式月饼

Quzhou-style Moon Cakes

图片来源：衢州文旅

Image courtesy: Cultural Tourism in Quzhou

港式月饼 

Hong Kong-style Moon Cakes

制作手法和原料上中西结合，以冰皮月饼、奶黄月饼为特色。

Both Chinese and Western methods and raw materials are adopted in producing Hong Kong-style Moon Cakes, which feature snow-skin moon cakes and custard mooncakes.

港式月饼

Hong Kong-style Moon Cakes

台式月饼 

Taiwan-style Moon Cakes

绿豆椪（pèng）是中国台湾的传统月饼。外层是酥皮，内里是绿豆泥甜馅。

Lvdoupeng (The mung bean crispy cake) is a traditional moon cake in Chinese Taiwan, consisting of puff pastry for crust, and mashed sweet mung beans for filling.

台式月饼

Taiwan-style Moon Cakes

特色月饼 

Special Moon Cakes

除了传统月饼之外，许多品牌商家还会在中秋佳节之际推出各种特色月饼，如巧克力月饼、冰激凌月饼、文创周边月饼等等。

In addition to the traditional moon cakes, many brands would launch various special moon cakes during the Mid-Autumn Festival, such as chocolate moon cakes, ice cream moon cakes, and cultural moon cakes with creative designs.

巧克力月饼

Chocolate Mooncake

古往今来，明月、思念、团圆是中秋节诵之不尽的主题，月饼则是中秋家宴不可或缺的一道团圆点心。广式、苏式、京式、滇式、台式……各色月饼承载着各地的饮食习惯、文化风俗，更承载着人们对家乡、对亲人的思念。又是一年中秋节，今天你吃月饼了没？

Throughout the ages, the bright moon, nostalgia and reunion have been inexhaustible themes for poems and songs about the Mid-Autumn Festival, and moon cakes are an indispensable reunion snack for the Mid-Autumn family banquet. Cantonese style, Suzhou style, Beijing style, Yunnan style, Taiwan style... the rich variety of moon cakes convey the dietary habits and cultural customs of various places, as well as the people’s thoughts of their hometown and relatives. It’s yet another Mid-Autumn Festival. Do you enjoy any moon cake?

注：图片源自上述各网站，特此鸣谢！

参考文献：

[1]新疆维吾尔自治区博物馆. 宝相花纹月饼[EB/OL]. [2022-08-29]. http://39.106.27.137:8088/jeecmsv9/spl/215.jhtml.

[2] 许嘉璐. 中国古代礼俗辞典[M]. 中国友谊出版公司, 1991.

[3]中国非物质文化遗产网. 舌尖上的中秋——盘点各地中秋美食. [EB/OL]. [2022-08-26] https://www.ihchina.cn/Article/Index/detail?id=10214.

[4] 国家人文历史. 中国月饼地图：闭上眼睛，那是家乡的味道[EB/OL]. [2022-08-26] https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/eA2xcj6RJD4Sq54dw1U7-w.

[5] 博物. 中秋到底为啥吃月饼？这完全是个巧合. [EB/OL]. [2022-08-26]  https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/R7s17471zP5JxfbwIKGV4g.

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内容编辑：吴晓静 刘希 姚媛媛

美术编辑：姚媛媛 伍思语（实习）

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