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最危险的奶酪,这是地狱美食吧... | 双语精选

译介 2023-06-20


不走寻常路的黑暗料理常常能激发人们的猎奇心理。意大利撒丁岛就有这么一种奶酪,有着几百年的历史,被吉尼斯世界纪录宣布为“世界上最危险的奶酪”,甚至被法律明令禁止。究竟是什么样的奶酪?它又为何如此危险呢?我们一起看文章。



01


Casu marzu: The world's 'most dangerous' cheese

卡苏马苏奶酪(Casu marzu): 世界上 “最危险”的奶酪


The Italian island of Sardinia sits in the middle of the Tyrrhenian Sea, gazing at Italy from a distance. Surrounded by a 1,849-kilometer coastline of white sandy beaches and emerald waters, the island's inland landscape rapidly rises to form hills and impervious mountains.

意大利的撒丁岛,坐落在第勒尼安海的中央,与意大利半岛隔海相望。长达1849公里的白色沙滩和翡翠一般的海水包围着撒丁岛,岛上有平原、丘陵和花岗岩山地。


And it is within these edgy curves that shepherds produce casu marzu, a maggot-infested cheese that, in 2009, the Guinness World Record proclaimed the world's most dangerous cheese.

正是在这些丰富的地貌之下,撒丁岛的牧羊人生产出了卡苏马苏奶酪(casu marzu),一种被活蛆虫“消化”过的奶酪。2009年,世界吉尼斯纪录宣布这是世界上最危险的奶酪。


Cheese skipper flies, Piophila casei, lay their eggs in cracks that form in cheese, usually fiore sardo, the island's salty pecorino. Maggots hatch, making their way through the paste, digesting proteins in the process, and transforming the product into a soft creamy cheese.

酪蝇(Piophila casei)在奶酪的裂缝中产卵,通常是产在撒丁岛一种叫做fiore sardo的咸味佩科里诺奶酪上。蛆虫孵化后,在干酪上爬行,边爬边分解蛋白质,让奶酪变成柔软的奶油质地。


Then the cheesemonger cracks open the top -- which is almost untouched by maggots -- to scoop out a spoonful of the creamy delicacy. It's not a moment for the faint-hearted. At this point, the grubs inside begin to writhe frantically.

接着,奶酪商将奶酪从顶部砸开(这部分没接触过蛆虫),舀出一勺奶油样的美味佳肴。这不是一个胆小的人可以做到的。因为在处理时,奶酪里面的蛆虫被碰到后会开始疯狂蠕动。


Some locals spin the cheese through a centrifuge to merge the maggots with the cheese. Others like it au naturel. They open their mouths and eat everything.

部分当地人会选择将奶酪放到离心机中,把蛆虫与奶酪搅在一起。另外一些人则选择原汁原味的吃法。他们张开嘴,把活蹦乱跳的蛆虫和奶酪一起吃到腹中。


If you are able to overcome the understandable disgust, marzu has a flavor that is intense with reminders of the Mediterranean pastures and spicy with an aftertaste that stays for hours.

感到恶心是在情理之中,如果你能克服,卡苏马苏奶酪其实很美味。它风味浓郁,让人联想到地中海的牧场,入口辛辣,回味无穷,味道会留在口腔中数小时。


Some say it's an aphrodisiac. Others say that it could be dangerous for human health as maggots could survive the bite and and create myiasis, micro-perforations in the intestine, but so far, no such case has been linked to casu marzu.

有人说卡苏马苏奶酪有催情的作用。也有人说,食用卡苏马苏奶酪可能会损害健康,因为奶酪中的蛆虫被咬后仍可能存活下来,导致蝇蛆病和肠道微穿孔等疾病。但到目前为止,还没有病例显示与食用卡苏马苏奶酪有关。


The cheese is banned from commercial sale, but Sardinians have been eating it, jumping grubs included, for centuries.

意大利政府禁止这种奶酪的商业销售,但撒丁岛人一直都在吃这种奶酪,包括奶酪里面活蹦乱跳的蛆虫,已经有几个世纪了。


"The maggot infestation is the spell and delight of this cheese," says Paolo Solinas, a 29-year-old Sardinian gastronome. He says some Sardinians cringe at the thought of casu marzu, but others raised on a lifetime of salty pecorino unabashedly love its strong flavors.

29岁的撒丁岛美食家保罗·索利纳斯(Paolo Solinas)说:“蛆虫正是这种奶酪的魔力和乐趣所在。”他说一些撒丁岛人一想到卡苏马苏奶酪就战战兢兢,但那些吃了一辈子这种咸味佩科里诺奶酪的人却毫不掩饰自己对它浓烈风味的喜爱。


"Some shepherds see the cheese as a unique personal pleasure, something that just a few elects can try," Solinas adds.

“撒丁岛人将卡苏马苏奶酪视为一种小众趣味,一种只有少数人愿意尝试的食物,”索利纳斯补充说。



02


Archaic cuisine

古代美食


When tourists visit Sardinia, they usually wind up in a restaurant that serves porceddu sardo, a slowly roasted suckling piglet, visit bakers who sell pane carasau, a traditional paper-thin flatbread, and meet shepherds who produce fiore sardo, the island pecorino cheese.

当游客访问撒丁岛时,他们通常会去当地餐厅品尝当地美食烤乳猪(porceddu sardo),一种在炭火上慢烤制成的乳猪;到售卖萨丁尼亚薄饼(pane carasau)的面包店,拜访岛上生产佩科里诺奶酪(pecorino cheese)的牧羊人。


Yet, if you are adventurous enough, it's possible to find the casu marzu. It shouldn't be seen as a weird attraction, but a product that keeps alive an ancient tradition and hints at what the future of food might look like.

此外,如果你有足够的冒险精神,是有可能找到卡苏马苏奶酪的。它不该被看作是猎奇打卡美食,它是一个延续了当地古老历史传统的产品,揭示了食物在未来可能是什么样子。


Giovanni Fancello, a 77-year-old Sardinian journalist and gastronome, spent his life researching local food history. He's traced it back to a time when Sardinia was a province of the Roman empire.

77岁的撒丁岛记者、美食家乔瓦尼·范切洛(Giovanni Fancello)一生都在研究当地的饮食历史。他认为卡苏马苏奶酪可以追溯到撒丁岛还是古罗马帝国一个省的时期。


"Latin was our language, and it's in our dialect that we find traces of our archaic cuisine," Fancello says.

“拉丁语曾经是我们的语言。在方言中,我们找到了古老美食遗留的痕迹。”范切洛说。


There is no written record of Sardinian recipes until 1909, according to Fancello. That's when Vittorio Agnetti, a doctor from mainland Modena, traveled to Sardinia and compiled six recipes in a book called "La nuova cucina delle specialità regionali."

据范切洛说,在1909年之前,历史上没有关于撒丁岛食谱的书面记载。直到1909年,来自摩德纳的医生维托里奥·阿格内蒂(Vittorio Agnetti)来到撒丁岛,在一本名为 《地方特色新菜系》的书中汇编了六道食谱。


"But we have always eaten worms," says Fancello. "Pliny the Elder and Aristotle talked about it."

“但是我们一直都在吃虫子,”范切洛说,“盖乌斯·普林尼·塞孔杜斯和亚里士多德都谈过这个问题。”


Ten other Italian regions have their variant of maggot-infested cheese, but while the products elsewhere are regarded as one-offs, casu marzu is intrinsically part of Sardinian food culture.

意大利其他10个地区也有他们自己类似蛆虫奶酪这样的食物,但这些食物都是昙花一现,没有传承下来,只有卡苏马苏奶酪留存下来,成了撒丁岛饮食文化的一部分。


The cheese has several different names, such as casu becciu, casu fattittu, hasu muhidu, formaggio marcio. Each sub-region of the island has its own way of producing it using different kinds of milk.

卡苏马苏奶酪在现在的意大利语里是“casu marzu”,在当地方言萨丁尼亚语中还有几个不同的变种:casu becciu,casu fattittu,hasu muhidu,formaggio marcio。这是由于撒丁岛上的每个分区,都使用不同种类的羊奶制作奶酪,生产方式也不尽相同。



03


High fines

巨额罚款


Though revered, the cheese's legal status is a gray area.

虽然卡苏马苏奶酪很受欢迎,但它一直处于法律的灰色地带。


Casu marzu is registered as a traditional product of Sardinia and therefore is locally protected. Still, it has been deemed illegal by the Italian government since 1962 due to laws that prohibit the consumption of food infected by parasites.

卡苏马苏奶酪被认证为撒丁岛传统美食,受当地保护。但由于法律规定禁止食用被寄生虫感染的食物,自1962年以来,它一直被意大利政府视为非法。


Those who sell the cheese can face high fines up to €50,000 (about $60,000) but Sardinians laugh when asked about the prohibition of their beloved cheese.

出售卡苏马苏奶酪的人可能面临高达50,000欧元(约60,000美元)的巨额罚款,但撒丁岛人被问到他们心爱的奶酪被禁止这件事时都笑了。


In the past few years, the European Union has begun to study and revive the notion of eating grubs thanks to the concept of novel food, where insects are raised to be consumed. Research shows that their consumption could help reduce carbon dioxide emissions associated with animal farming and help alleviate the climate crisis.

在过去的几年里,欧盟已经开始进行研究,试图唤起大家对吃蛆虫这件事的认知,这要归功于近几年出现的新型食品。在新型食品的概念中,昆虫可以被养大然后食用。研究表明,食用昆虫能够减少畜牧养殖排放的二氧化碳,进而缓解气候危机。



今日词汇


maggot /ˈmæɡət/ n. 蛆;空想,狂想

the Guinness World Record 吉尼斯世界纪录

pecorino /ˌpekəˈriːnəʊ/ n. 羊乳干酪;佩科里诺干酪

faint-hearted /ˌfeɪnt ˈhɑːtɪd/ adj. 怯懦的;胆怯的

aftertaste /ˈɑːftəteɪst/ n. 回味;余韵

one-off n. 一次性事物


翻译讨论


If you are able to overcome the understandable disgust, marzu has a flavor that is intense with reminders of the Mediterranean pastures and spicy with an aftertaste that stays for hours.


这里的 understandable disgust ,你觉得要怎么翻译好呢?


如果有机会,你敢挑战卡苏马苏奶酪吗?


欢迎评论区留言讨论!



译者:签约笔译班学员 Sammi

审校:Jennifer

英文来源:CNN

*对应译文由译介翻译团队完成,仅供参考,不当之处欢迎大家在评论区讨论!转载请注明来源!

▲ 如需人工翻译服务,请联系微信号kevinssf !





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